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	<title>Elliott C. Back &#187; Computers &amp; Technology</title>
	<atom:link href="http://elliottback.com/wp/category/computers-technology/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://elliottback.com/wp</link>
	<description>Internet &#38; Technology</description>
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		<title>A Better Gaming PC for Under $1000</title>
		<link>http://elliottback.com/wp/a-better-gaming-pc-for-under-1000/</link>
		<comments>http://elliottback.com/wp/a-better-gaming-pc-for-under-1000/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 21 Dec 2011 00:57:33 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Elliott Back</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Computers & Technology]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Hardware]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://elliottback.com/wp/?p=3595</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Today in The Verge&#8217;s How-to: Build a killer gaming PC for under $1,000 they suggest putting together the following components:




Processor
Intel Core i5-2500K
$209.99


Motherboard
Asus P8P67 Pro Rev 3.1
$144.99


Graphics
Gigabyte GTX 560 Ti OC 900MHz 1GB
$214.99


Memory
8GB Corsair Vengeance CL9 DDR3-1600 RAM
$44.99


Boot drive
Samsung 64GB SSD 830
$94.99


Storage drive
WD Caviar Blue 500GB 7200RPM HDD
$99.99


Power supply
Corsair Enthusiast Series CMPSU-650TX
$59.99


Case
Fractal Design Core 3000
$64.99


Optical drive
Samsung [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Today in <a href="http://www.theverge.com/2011/12/19/2639968/how-to-build-gaming-pc">The Verge&#8217;s <em>How-to: Build a killer gaming PC for under $1,000</em></a> they suggest putting together the following components:</p>
<p><img src="http://elliottback.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/blazing-speed.jpg" alt="" title="blazing speed" width="450" height="257" class="alignnone size-full wp-image-3596" /></p>
<table>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td><strong>Processor</strong></td>
<td>Intel Core i5-2500K</td>
<td>$209.99</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><strong>Motherboard</strong></td>
<td>Asus P8P67 Pro Rev 3.1</td>
<td>$144.99</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><strong>Graphics</strong></td>
<td>Gigabyte GTX 560 Ti OC 900MHz 1GB</td>
<td>$214.99</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><strong>Memory</strong></td>
<td>8GB Corsair Vengeance CL9 DDR3-1600 RAM</td>
<td>$44.99</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><strong>Boot drive</strong></td>
<td>Samsung 64GB SSD 830</td>
<td>$94.99</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><strong>Storage drive</strong></td>
<td>WD Caviar Blue 500GB 7200RPM HDD</td>
<td>$99.99</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><strong>Power supply</strong></td>
<td>Corsair Enthusiast Series CMPSU-650TX</td>
<td>$59.99</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><strong>Case</strong></td>
<td>Fractal Design Core 3000</td>
<td>$64.99</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><strong>Optical drive</strong></td>
<td>Samsung SH-B123 12x BD-ROM</td>
<td>$59.99</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>&nbsp;</td>
<td>&nbsp;</td>
<td colspan="2">Total: $994.91</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>I feel that it does a few things wrong, emphasizing an nVidia graphics card that trails ATI&#8217;s mid-range offering, lacks significant RAM, and splurges on unneeded components like a DVD drive and spinning-disk hard drive.  If I were to build an off the shelf gaming PC with the ample budget of $1000, using the same tricks (no peripherals, no OS, no LCD/LED monitor) as The Verge, here is what I&#8217;d buy:</p>
<table>
<tr>
<td><strong>Processor / Mobo</strong></td>
<td><a href="http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.777266">Intel Core i5-2500K /  MSI P67A-C43 combo</a></td>
<td>$314.98</td>
<td><span style="color:green;">11% cheaper</span></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><strong>Graphics</strong></td>
<td><a href="http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150530">XFX HD-695X-CNFC Radeon HD 6950 2GB</a></td>
<td>$229.99</td>
<td><span style="color:red;">7% more</span></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><strong>Memory</strong></td>
<td><a href="http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233198">CORSAIR Vengeance 16GB (4&#215;4GB) DDR3 1600</a></td>
<td>$77.99</td>
<td><span style="color:red;">73% more</span></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><strong>Drive</strong></td>
<td><a href="http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820147134">Samsung 128GB SSD 830</a></td>
<td>$209.99</td>
<td><span style="color:red;">8% more</span></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><strong>Power Supply</strong></td>
<td><a href="http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139027">CORSAIR Builder Series CX500 V2 500W</a></td>
<td>$39.99</td>
<td><span style="color:green;">33% cheaper</span></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><strong>Case</strong></td>
<td><a href="http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129066">Antec Three Hundred Illusion Black Steel</a></td>
<td>$69.99</td>
<td><span style="color:red;">8% more</span></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>&nbsp;</td>
<td>&nbsp;</td>
<td colspan="2">Total: $942.93 (<span style="color:green;">5% cheaper</span>)</td>
</tr>
</table>
<p>The motherboard/CPU are virtually identical here and they are great picks&#8211;I also don&#8217;t care much about which case to use.  However, I think this build is significantly stronger in the graphics/memory/drive arenas, and benefits from a cheaper 500W power supply.  When you buy the ATI 6950 over the suggested nVidia 560 Ti, you get:</p>
<ul>
<li>Twice as much graphics RAM (2GB vs 1GB)</li>
<li>30 &#8211; 50W loaded less power consumption</li>
<li>Similar performance</li>
</ul>
<p>8 GB of RAM is OK, but when you have a 64 bit OS that can handle it all, why not put 16 GB into the system for $30 more?  It&#8217;s a cheap easy win.  And last, and possibly more controversially, I don&#8217;t see the need for an optical drive&#8211;everything is downloadable these days.  I&#8217;d also rather have twice the SSD space than a slow spinning drive to load applications off.</p>
<p>Readers, what do you think?  I&#8217;m sure my ATI preference will upset you&#8230;</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		</item>
		<item>
		<title>GMail Blocking Chase Emails as Spam</title>
		<link>http://elliottback.com/wp/gmail-blocking-chase-emails-as-spam/</link>
		<comments>http://elliottback.com/wp/gmail-blocking-chase-emails-as-spam/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 23 Sep 2011 22:52:58 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Elliott Back</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Google]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Spam]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://elliottback.com/wp/?p=3567</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[For whatever reason, Gmail keeps blocking my account alert emails from Chase.  In my spam folder, guess which are really spam, and which are legit?

When I move them to my inbox and/or mark them as spam, I get warned that &#8220;Warning: This message may not be from whom it claims to be. Beware of [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>For whatever reason, Gmail keeps blocking my account alert emails from Chase.  In my spam folder, guess which are really spam, and which are legit?</p>
<p><a href="http://elliottback.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/chase-spam.png"><img src="http://elliottback.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/chase-spam-450x99.png" alt="" title="chase spam" width="450" height="99" class="alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-3568" /></a></p>
<p>When I move them to my inbox and/or mark them as spam, I get warned that &#8220;Warning: This message may not be from whom it claims to be. Beware of following any links in it or of providing the sender with any personal information.&#8221;</p>
<p><img src="http://elliottback.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/chase-spam-2.png" alt="" title="chase spam 2" width="450" height="131" class="alignnone size-full wp-image-3569" /></p>
<p>How do I get Google to believe that my emails from Chase are real?  I keep marking them as not spam, but that doesn&#8217;t help!  Ridiculous that Gmail is hurting Chase Bank&#8217;s ability to conduct business and manage their fraud/risk. I highly suspect that account fraud alerts would get thrown into the same bucket&#8230;</p>
<p><strong>Update 1:</strong></p>
<p>The message headers seem to indicate a failure between Cornell and Google&#8217;s servers on SPF (Sender Policy Framework):</p>
<blockquote><p>Delivered-To: <a href="mailto:XXXX@gmail.com" title="mailto:XXXX@gmail.com">XXXX@gmail.com</a><br />
Received: by 10.231.53.18 with SMTP id k18cs6777ibg;<br />
        Sat, 24 Sep 2011 05:13:22 -0700 (PDT)<br />
Received: by 10.52.93.112 with SMTP id ct16mr4101007vdb.423.1316866401115;<br />
        Sat, 24 Sep 2011 05:13:21 -0700 (PDT)<br />
Return-Path: &lt;Chase@alerts.chase.com&gt;<br />
Received: from <a href="http://limestone3.mail.cornell.edu" title="http://limestone3.mail.cornell.edu" target="_blank">limestone3.mail.cornell.edu</a> (<a href="http://limestone3.mail.cornell.edu" title="http://limestone3.mail.cornell.edu" target="_blank">limestone3.mail.cornell.edu</a>. [128.253.83.163])<br />
        by <a href="http://mx.google.com" title="http://mx.google.com" target="_blank">mx.google.com</a> with ESMTP id bz6si11946296vdc.126.2011.09.24.05.13.20;<br />
        Sat, 24 Sep 2011 05:13:21 -0700 (PDT)<br />
<span style="color:red">Received-SPF: fail (<a href="http://google.com" title="http://google.com" target="_blank">google.com</a>: domain of <a href="mailto:Chase@alerts.chase.com" title="mailto:Chase@alerts.chase.com">Chase@alerts.chase.com</a> does not designate 128.253.83.163 as permitted sender) client-ip=128.253.83.163;<br />
Authentication-Results: <a href="http://mx.google.com" title="http://mx.google.com" target="_blank">mx.google.com</a>; spf=hardfail (<a href="http://google.com" title="http://google.com" target="_blank">google.com</a>: domain of <a href="mailto:Chase@alerts.chase.com" title="mailto:Chase@alerts.chase.com">Chase@alerts.chase.com</a> does not designate 128.253.83.163 as permitted sender) smtp.mail=Chase@alerts.chase.com; dkim=hardfail header.i=@alerts.Chase.com</span><br />
X-CornellRouted: This message has been Routed already.<br />
&#8230;</p></blockquote>
<p><strong>Update 2:</strong> A helpful Googler/blog reader said this:</p>
<blockquote><p>It appears to be a problem specifically with Cornell. It&#8217;s a known issue when Cornell is forwarding e-mails to GMail. The Cornell IT admins [are fixing] their exchange server. In the meantime you can fix this with either:</p>
<p>- have Chase send info direct to @gmail.com<br />
- create a filter to &#8220;never mark as spam&#8221; for that address.</p></blockquote>
<p>My solution is to change my old rules to email directly to gmail rather than forward through Cornell&#8217;s servers.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Google Maps: Summer, then Winter</title>
		<link>http://elliottback.com/wp/google-maps-summer-then-winter/</link>
		<comments>http://elliottback.com/wp/google-maps-summer-then-winter/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 24 Jul 2011 04:00:45 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Elliott Back</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Google]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Google Maps]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://elliottback.com/wp/?p=3549</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[An interesting bit of German scenery from Google Maps, if you go forward one step, you go suddenly from a summer view:

To a Stark-cold winter one:

This serendipitous discovery (more discussion at Reddit) brought delight.
]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>An interesting bit of <a href="http://maps.google.de/maps?ll=60.000531,10.27874&#038;spn=0.053042,0.445976&#038;t=h&#038;layer=c&#038;cbll=60.000429,10.278889&#038;panoid=0IvNFloBN5-eEhjF8l8xKQ&#038;cbp=12,305.01,,0,8.76&#038;z=12">German scenery from Google Maps</a>, if you go forward one step, you go suddenly from a summer view:</p>
<p><img src="http://elliottback.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2011/07/google-maps-germany-summer.jpg" alt="" title="google maps - germany - summer" width="450" height="273" class="alignnone size-full wp-image-3550" /></p>
<p>To a Stark-cold winter one:</p>
<p><img src="http://elliottback.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2011/07/google-maps-germany-winter.jpg" alt="" title="google maps - germany - winter" width="450" height="273" class="alignnone size-full wp-image-3551" /></p>
<p>This serendipitous discovery (<a href="http://www.reddit.com/r/reddit.com/comments/ixn2a/suddenly_winter_go_one_step_forward/">more discussion at Reddit</a>) brought delight.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Synology DS1511+ NAS Review</title>
		<link>http://elliottback.com/wp/synology-ds1511-nas-review/</link>
		<comments>http://elliottback.com/wp/synology-ds1511-nas-review/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 20 Apr 2011 01:45:21 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Elliott Back</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Computers & Technology]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Hardware]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[NAS]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://elliottback.com/wp/?p=3517</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[In this post, I&#8217;ll be reviewing a brand new Synology DiskStation DS1511+ NAS equipped with five Hitachi Deskstar 2TB 5K3000 drives configured in RAID5.  For comparison, I&#8217;ve also written about the Gen 1 Drobo&#8217;s performance as a NAS before (it tops out around 20MB/s), and own two of them at home.  While the [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>In this post, I&#8217;ll be reviewing a brand new <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004GKLT4G/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&#038;tag=elliottback-20&#038;linkCode=as2&#038;camp=217145&#038;creative=399349&#038;creativeASIN=B004GKLT4G">Synology DiskStation DS1511+ NAS</a> equipped with five <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004E9SGO0/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&#038;tag=elliottback-20&#038;linkCode=as2&#038;camp=217145&#038;creative=399349&#038;creativeASIN=B004E9SGO0">Hitachi Deskstar 2TB 5K3000 drives</a> configured in RAID5.  For comparison, I&#8217;ve also written about <a href="http://elliottback.com/wp/drobo-benchmark/">the Gen 1 Drobo&#8217;s performance</a> as a NAS before (it tops out around 20MB/s), and own two of them at home.  While the Drobos allow you to build mix-and-match RAID arrays, they are slow, take forever to rebuild, noisy, and hot.  I am hoping the DS1511+ will remedy all of these issues.</p>
<p><img src="http://elliottback.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/Synology-DS1511+.jpg" alt="" title="Synology DS1511+" width="450" height="312" class="alignnone size-full wp-image-3518" /><br />
<small>Read more about the <a href="http://www.synology.com/us/products/DS1511+/index.php">DS1511+ specs here</a></small></p>
<h3>Network Base Configuration</h3>
<p>The Synology NAS is using default MTU of 1500, connected to a Gigabit Ethernet Switch on LAN2.  Testing with iperf shows a good gigabit connection between my PC and the NAS of around 885Mb/s:</p>
<blockquote><p>Big_Bug&gt; iperf -s<br />
&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;<br />
Server listening on TCP port 5001<br />
TCP window size: 85.3 KByte (default)<br />
&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;<br />
[ ID] Interval       Transfer     Bandwidth<br />
[  7]  0.0-20.0 sec  2.05 GBytes    882 Mbits/sec<br />
[  6]  0.0-30.0 sec  3.09 GBytes    885 Mbits/sec</p></blockquote>
<p>In megabytes per second, we can transfer 110.625 MB/s.  As you will see, this is actually slightly lower than the performance of the RAID array.</p>
<h3>The Hard Drives</h3>
<p>How fast are the triple-platter 2TB deskstar 5K3000s in RAID5?  It can do a very reasonable 125 MB/s in unbuffered pure-disk performance:</p>
<blockquote><p>Big_Bug&gt; hdparm -t /dev/sda<br />
Timing buffered disk reads:  374 MB in  3.01 seconds = 124.22 MB/sec</p></blockquote>
<p><img src="http://elliottback.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/synology-volumes.png" alt="" title="synology volumes" width="450" height="201" class="alignnone size-full wp-image-3521" /></p>
<h3>Benchmarking File Copy from Windows</h3>
<p>To test how fast I can transfer from my PC to the NAS, I&#8217;ve created a 4GB binary file:</p>
<blockquote><p>C:\Users\Elliott Bäck\Desktop&gt;ls -l test.file<br />
-rw-rw-rw-  1 Elliott Bäck 0 4693544330 2011-04-19 20:00 test.file</p></blockquote>
<p><img src="http://elliottback.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/synology-writes.png" alt="" title="synology writes" width="450" height="292" class="alignnone size-full wp-image-3519" /></p>
<p>Copying this file in Windows 7&#8217;s explorer took just 50.5 seconds.  Doing the math, this gives us an <strong>average write rate of 88.63 MB/s</strong>.  How fast can we copy it back?  It took 71.6 seconds, for an <strong>average read rate of 62.51 MB/s</strong>.  Both of these number are going to be constrained by how fast my desktop PC&#8217;s Intel SSD can read/write.  I also tested using Java and writing a RandomAccessFile with a ByteBuffer, which achieved <strong>95MB/s write</strong> and <strong>97MB/s read</strong> on a 1GB file.</p>
<h3>Reliability &#038; Temperature</h3>
<p>You just need to open up the storage manager on the Synology DS1511+ NAS to see what a beauty it is, giving you a full SMART status readout on all your physical drives, as well as their temperatures.  Even after running through my benchmarking, the drives were only 34<sup>&deg;</sup> C warm:</p>
<p><img src="http://elliottback.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/synology-storage-manager.png" alt="" title="synology storage manager" width="450" height="221" class="alignnone size-full wp-image-3520" /></p>
<h3>Conclusions</h3>
<p>At nearly $900 for the NAS itself without drives, it&#8217;s pricey.  But plugged into a Gigabit ethernet, the DS1511+ from Synology is also fast, cool, and quiet; the three things you want most from a NAS.  Featurewise, it has a glorious UI, media servers built in (which I don&#8217;t use) and expandibility from 5 to a maximum of 15 drives.  I anticipate phasing out my Drobos, with their proprietary technology, for the Synology NAS, which runs on open-source plain-vanilla linux.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		</item>
		<item>
		<title>How to rip a DVD: It&#8217;s Free &amp; Easy!</title>
		<link>http://elliottback.com/wp/how-to-rip-a-dvd-for-free/</link>
		<comments>http://elliottback.com/wp/how-to-rip-a-dvd-for-free/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 14 Apr 2011 01:17:22 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Elliott Back</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Computers & Technology]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[DVD]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Movies]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[P2P]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Rip]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[bit torrent]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[bittorrent]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://elliottback.com/wp/?p=3501</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[This post is a followup to the quite dated tutorial I wrote in 2005, called How to rip a DVD: A Tutorial.  At that time, DVD decrypter and AutoGK were the tools of choice, but they&#8217;ve been supplanted as technology has improved by more user-friendly, automatic programs.  
As of 2011, I would recommend [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>This post is a followup to the quite dated tutorial I wrote in 2005, called <a href="http://elliottback.com/wp/how-to-rip-a-dvd-a-tutorial/">How to rip a DVD: A Tutorial</a>.  At that time, DVD decrypter and AutoGK were the tools of choice, but they&#8217;ve been supplanted as technology has improved by more user-friendly, automatic programs.  </p>
<p>As of 2011, I would recommend using <strong><a href="http://handbrake.fr/">Handbrake</a></strong>, an open-source multithreaded and cross-platform ripper which works on Windows and Apple Mac OS both!</p>
<p><img src="http://elliottback.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/handbrake.png" alt="" title="handbrake" width="450" height="97" class="alignnone size-full wp-image-3502" /></p>
<p><strong>Step 1: Download &#038; Install</strong></p>
<p>Please <a href="http://handbrake.fr/downloads.php">download and install</a> Handbrake to get started.  At about 6MB, it shouldn&#8217;t take more than a minute.</p>
<p><strong>Step 2: Launch the DVD Ripper</strong></p>
<p>Put in your DVD and launch Handbrake.  You should be greeted with an informative screen similar to the following:</p>
<p><a href="http://elliottback.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/handbrake-main-screen.jpg"><img src="http://elliottback.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/handbrake-main-screen-450x263.jpg" alt="" title="handbrake - main screen" width="450" height="263" class="alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-3503" /></a></p>
<p>By default, nothing is selected yet.  There are a few options you can set, such as your preferred subtitle capture language and dubbing language preferences.  I prefer the movies in original audio with English subs.</p>
<p><strong>Step 3: Select the Source</strong></p>
<p>I just popped in a Coen Brothers DVD, so when I click on the &#8220;Source&#8221; dropdown, it shows up there right away.  Unfortunately, you can&#8217;t directly rip a commercial DVD this way.  You need to dump it to disk with <a href="http://www.dvddecrypter.org.uk/">DVD Decrypter</a>, after which you can  select a DVD rip saved to a folder on your harddrive:</p>
<p><img src="http://elliottback.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/handbrake-selecting-a-source.png" alt="" title="handbrake - selecting a source" width="450" height="281" class="alignnone size-full wp-image-3504" /></p>
<p>After some time (&#8220;Processing Title: 1 of 15&#8230;&#8221;) you will see the main screen populated with information.  If you get stuck on the &#8220;processing title&#8221; bit, remember you need to open a folder you saved from DVD Decrypter (the decryption will take 20-30 minutes for a feature film).</p>
<p><strong>Step 4: Choose a Title</strong></p>
<p>Titles are like the chapters of a DVD.  Usually there will be a single long title that contains the movie, like the 1 hr, 56 minute &#8220;Title 1&#8243; I am selecting:</p>
<p><img src="http://elliottback.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/handbrake-choose-a-title.png" alt="" title="handbrake - choose a title" width="450" height="281" class="alignnone size-full wp-image-3505" /></p>
<p><strong>Step 5: Choose Output Settings</strong></p>
<p>You have a lot to choose from.  You can pick one of the <a href="https://trac.handbrake.fr/wiki/BuiltInPresets">Handbrake presets</a> for iPod/iTouch/iPad, or customize one of your own.  I&#8217;m going to use the &#8220;High Profile&#8221; setting to watch on my PC, but override the target file size to 2 CDs, or 1400 MB:</p>
<p><a href="http://elliottback.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/handbrake-output-presets.png"><img src="http://elliottback.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/handbrake-output-presets-450x131.png" alt="" title="handbrake - output presets" width="450" height="131" class="alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-3507" /></a></p>
<p><strong>Step 6: Encode the video</strong></p>
<p>Just click the &#8220;Start&#8221; button to kick things off, or &#8220;preview&#8221; to make sure you&#8217;re OK with the quality:</p>
<p><img src="http://elliottback.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/handbrake-encoding.png" alt="" title="handbrake - encoding" width="450" height="169" class="alignnone size-full wp-image-3508" /></p>
<p>It&#8217;s going to take me about 52 minutes to encode this; on my i7 with 4 cores x2 hyperthreading, CPU usage is at 100%.</p>
<p><strong>Finally&#8230;</strong></p>
<p>If anything goes wrong, there&#8217;s an entire Handbrake community who can help you out.  Why don&#8217;t you start by looking at their <a href="https://forum.handbrake.fr/viewtopic.php?t=2741">How To Request Support for HandBrake</a> thread?</p>
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